No data available.
Please log in to see this content.
You have no subscription access to this content.
No metrics data to plot.
The attempt to load metrics for this article has failed.
The attempt to plot a graph for these metrics has failed.
The full text of this article is not currently available.
Extreme waves induced by strong depth transitions: Fully nonlinear results
3. K. Trulsen, H. Zeng, and O. Gramstad, “Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry,” Phys. Fluids 24, 097101 (2012).
4. H. Zeng and K. Trulsen, “Evolution of skewness and kurtosis of weakly nonlinear unidirectional waves over a sloping bottom,” Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. 12, 631–638 (2012).
5. O. Gramstad, H. Zeng, K. Trulsen, and G. K. Pedersen, “Freak waves in weakly nonlinear unidirectional wave trains over a sloping bottom in shallow water,” Phys. Fluids 25, 122103 (2013).
6. A. Sergeeva, E. Pelinovsky, and T. Talipova, “Nonlinear random wave fields in shallow water: Variable Korteweg-de Vries framework,” Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. 11, 323–330 (2011).
7. C. Viotti, D. Dutykh, and F. Dias, “The conformal-mapping method for surface gravity wave in the presence of variable bathymetry and mean current,” IUTAM Proc. 11, 110–118 (2014).
9. P. A. E. M. Janssen and M. Onorato, “The intermediate water depth limit of the Zakharov equation and consequences for wave prediction,” J. Phys. Ocean. 37, 2389–2400 (2007).
10. Z. Tian, M. Perlin, and W. Choi, “Frequency spectra evolution of two-dimensional focusing wave groups in finite depth water,” J. Fluid Mech. 688, 169–194 (2011).
11. L. Shemer, A. Sergeeva, and D. Liberzon, “Effect of the initial spectrum on the spatial evolution of statistics of unidirectional nonlinear random waves,” J. Geophys. Res. 115, C12039, doi:10.1029/2010JC006326 (2010).
12. M. Onorato, A. L. Osborne, M. Serio, L. Cavalieri, C. Brandini, and C. T. Stansberg, “Observation of strongly non-gaussian statistics for random sea surface gravity waves in wave flume experiments,” Phys. Rev. E 70, 067302 (2004).
14. S. Nazarenko, S. Lukaschuk, S. McLelland, and P. Denissenko, “Statistics of surface gravity wave turbulence in the space and time domains,” J. Fluid Mech. 642, 395–420 (2010).
15. W. Xiao, Y. Liu, G. Wu, and D. K. P. Yue, “Rogue wave occurrence and dynamics by direct simulations of nonlinear wave-field evolution,” J. Fluid Mech. 720, 357–392 (2013).
16. H. Socquet-Juglard, K. Dysthe, K. Trulsen, H. E. Krogstad, and J. Liu, “Probability distributions of surface gravity waves during spectral changes,” J. Fluid Mech. 542, 195–216 (2005).
17. A. Toffoli, E. M. Bitner-Gregersen, A. R. Osborne, M. Serio, J. Monbaliu, and M. Onorato, “Extreme waves in random crossing seas: Laboratory experiments and numerical simulations,” Geophys. Res. Lett. 38, L06605, doi:10.1029/2011GL046827 (2011).
Article metrics loading...
Recent studies on free-surface gravity waves over uneven bathymetries have shown that “rogue” waves can be triggered by strong depth variations. This phenomenon is here studied by means of spectral simulations of the free-surface Euler equations. We focus on the case of a random, one-directional wave field with prescribed statistics propagating over a submerged step, and consider different depth variations, up to an almost deep-to-shallow transition (k p H ≈ 1.8 − 0.78, where k p is the characteristic wavenumber and H the water depth). Strongly non-Gaussian statistics are observed in a region localized around the depth transition, beyond which they settle rapidly on the steady statistical state of finite-depth random wave fields. Extreme fluctuations are enhanced by stronger depth variations. Freak-wave formation is interpreted as a general signature of out-of-equilibrium dynamics, associated with the spectral settling from the deep-water to the finite-depth equilibrium. We also document that during such a transition the wave spectrum shows remarkable similarity with Phillips ω−5-law for the strongest depth variations considered.
Full text loading...
Most read this month